An Iconic Transformation at Bulgari
Two years ago, shortly after Mary Katrantzou was appointed as Bulgari’s inaugural creative director for leather goods and accessories, she embarked on a thorough exploration of the Italian brand’s extensive archives. This journey allowed her to delve deeply into Bulgari’s rich history, which traces back to its establishment by Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari in 1884. Through this immersive research process, Katrantzou chose to reinterpret some of the house's most iconic jewelry designs for her debut collection of minaudières, aptly named Icons.
This limited-edition series consists of five distinct bags, each offered in two different sizes, and showcases some of Bulgari’s hallmark themes. These include the ancient coin-inspired Monete, the serpentine Serpenti famously associated with Elizabeth Taylor, the elegantly crafted Tubogas, the fan-shaped Divas’ Dream, and the circular Bulgari Bulgari adorned with the brand’s logo. "My exploration evolved into a study of how jewelry can be transformed into functional accessories," Katrantzou explains, "and how an accessory can possess the allure of a precious jewel in your hands."
These exquisite bags incorporate stunning gemstones such as amethyst, tiger’s-eye, and malachite, each inspired by a remarkable woman: the legendary actress Isabella Rossellini, acclaimed author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, supermodel Linda Evangelista, actress Kim Ji-won, and architect Sumayya Vally. Katrantzou invited these women to pen personal essays addressing themes such as creativity, tradition, or significant lessons they've learned throughout their lives. These reflections were then published as miniature books, perfectly sized to fit inside the bags.
Rossellini, whose parents—actress Ingrid Bergman and director Roberto Rossellini—had close ties with the Bulgari family, shared her experience of returning to academia in her 60s to earn a master’s degree in animal behavior and conservation. She emphasizes that being labeled an icon is not a profession but rather a title bestowed upon you. "It suggests that there is something more captivating about your life beyond just your career. While I identify as an actress and model, my career has taken numerous diversions and collaborations that have added layers of intrigue to my story."
For Katrantzou, the Icons collection embodies both heritage and evolution, where luxurious items serve as vessels of knowledge. "I aimed to collaborate with women who represent cultural significance, creative bravery, and a sense of legacy," she notes. "These are women celebrated as the guardians of culture."
Interestingly, Katrantzou intentionally designed the bags in sizes and shapes that do not accommodate a mobile phone. "This choice itself makes a cultural statement," she asserts.
